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2002 Dark Silver MCS - One for life

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Wish I had the chance/time to do little bits like this. Great updates [emoji1303]



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The chance is created by commuting to work on a mountain bike, the time is short and often. Although it is now taking months.



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After far too much gentle persuasion and thinking I removed the brake caliper, the hand brake cable would not come out, so I resorted to drastic measures.

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Finished off with a hack saw


It appears that on my very early model the cable attachment was different? It had what looked like a complete bush all the way through with a flange at the top. Which was removed with a grinder on the Dremel, a HSS Drill bit, two broken flat headed screw driver tips (It was welded in place with rust), but succumbed to a hammer and chisel in the end.


Old

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New

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Caliper being prepared for paint

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Being painted with VHT paint

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Coilover all cleaned up, with the top mount repainted

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Calipers being progressed.


Handbrake cable fighting continued on the drivers side, grinding, drilling, heating and much hammering the connection came out.

During the fight

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Cleaned up afterwards

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Before and after together

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Passenger side completed - nice and glossy, I have new springs to install when all the paint has hardened

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Items back from being shot blasted, they still required work with the flap disc on the grinder and grind stones on the Dremel

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Treated with Bilthammer hydrate 80, Coated with lots of Bilthammer Electrox zinc primer and then painted with Por15, then clear coated.

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Brake disc bell housing painted

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Sub assembly begins on passenger side after 5 days of the paint hardening, I got bored with grinding and rust all bolts torqued and anti seize compound used on mating parts.

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Trailing arm bracket painted and then assembled with existing powerflex bushes and probably far too much silicon grease

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Drivers side had to be removed as a complete assembly as I could not get any of the wheel bearing or caliper carrier bolts out. Lots of heat a rather large breaker bar on the work bench sorted that.

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Control arms ready for assembly with powerflex bushes

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Sub frame after work with the grinder and Dremel, which will then be treated with zinc primer, painted with Por15 top coat and then clear coat.

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This weekend hopefully with be


Subframe painted

Removal of stupid plasticine brake disc retaining bolt on the drivers side, which is part way drilled out

Drivers side trailing arm attacked by the grinder after being shot blasted

Drop links repainted



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Edited by Guest

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There is some major time and effort going into this car, I'm guessing it's a keeper for a long time to come. Hats off to you for all the work you're putting in [emoji1305]

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There is some major time and effort going into this car, I'm guessing it's a keeper for a long time to come. Hats off to you for all the work you're putting in [emoji1305]

Thank you, I have no intention of parting with it.



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Proper hard graft into this. Love the on going updates...thank you [emoji4]



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Can't believe I've only just started catching up with this thread. Absolutely superb work. Actually an inspiration of those long term owners amongst us.

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Can't believe I've only just started catching up with this thread. Absolutely superb work. Actually an inspiration of those long term owners amongst us.

 

Very kind words thank you, 9 years in and counting.



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Bank holiday weekend work was limited


Control arms with the powerflex bushes installed with a copious amount of silicone grease

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Subframe and drivers side trailing arm treated with Bilthammer hydrate 80, doing it's magic of converting the unable to reach places within the pitting on the surface.

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The sub frame was then primed with zinc rich paint and painted with Por15 top coat, after which I realised that I had encountered a setback that has cost me a great deal of time and effort, as the donor subframe I had purchased (it was advertised for an R53) was incorrect as it did not have the brackets for the anti roll bar.

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Drop links before and during, I am trying something at the moment that I have read delivers good results with respect to surface corrosion, rusty bolts and the drop links are submerged in malt vinegar.

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Drivers side brake disc and calliper carrier cleaned up and painted

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The repaired, cleaned up and new parts are building up ready for the reassembly.

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You need a FULLONMINIS sticker on that cupboard door. Send me a PM with your address and I'll send you one [emoji1303]



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Hard brake lines were never going to be removed easily, so after a week of soaking in fluid I gave up, I even bought a set of flared spanners still no use at all so I cut them off.

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So took the opportunity to purchase a set of Hel braided brake lines in black.


Which means I have had to buy a flaring tool, I'm quite pleased with my practice results this week.

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I have finally got the rear subframe off after a lot of wiggling, I was unable to remove the rusted in control arms when on the car, they needed to be in the vice with a vey long breaker bar.

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It's getting a little cluttered in here now, I have also received a replacement subframe and full refund after my original purchase.


This is what I am left with to clean up to bare metal and prime, stone chip, topcoat and cavity wax. Oh joy.

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Got the drivers side trailing arm ground back to bare metal with a flap disc and then painted.

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Battery box now completed with all the heat shields removed

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Drivers side trailing arm assembly all back together

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All new bolts torqued up

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15 years of hidden crud jet washed off

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A reminder of what lie ahead

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Areas ground back to bare metal

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Correct rear subframe shot blasted, ground and painted and a Comparison against the original item

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Trailing arm bracket before and after

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Drop links after soaking in malt vinegar and then repainted in BMW bright red.

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In zinc primer

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Seam sealer and stone chip applied

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Top coat applied

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Hard brake line flaring practice

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Have repaired and cleaned up the heat shields also.



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Re-assembly sequence


1. Attach ARB to rear sub frame on the bench

2. Run brake lines and attach to all new clips

3. Replace carbon filter (damaged by grinder)

4. Install rear sub frame

5a. Install new fuel tank foam blocks

5b. Attach fuel tank cradle

5c. Install all rubber blanking plugs and grommets

6a. Replace hand brake cables and attach to fuel tank and run through rear sub frame

6b. Spray generous amounts of cavity wax in all the necessary areas

7. Install control arms *4 to rear sub frame

8. Install passenger side trailing arm bracket

9. Install passenger side trailing arm powerflex bushes

10. Install passenger side trailing arm sub assembly (trailing arm, wheel bearing, brake disc, brake caliper carrier, ABS sensor)

11. Install passenger side rear top mount with coil over

12a. Attach coil over to trailing arm

12b. Attach control arms to trailing arm

13. Install drop link

14. Install new male brake fitting

15. Double flare the existing brake line

16. Install brake calliper

17. Install Hel braided brake hose

18. Couple up the braided hose to hard line with new bracket

19. Plug in ABS sensor

20. Torque up all bolts correctly and mark them

21. Install new hand brake Spring to calliper

22. Attach hand brake cable to calliper

23. Attach top exhaust bracket

24. Attach lower exhaust bracket

25. Check all cables and lines are attached correctly

26. Repeat the relevant elements for the drivers side

27. Install the rear standard heat shield

28. Install the centre heat shield

29. Install the GTT heat shield on the battery box

30. Install the lower OMP strut brace

31. Put the wheels back on

32. Remove from axle stands and wheel out of garage

33. Bleed brakes

34. Charge battery and install

35. Walk to fuel station to get some fuel.

36. Turn the key (oh please)

37. Attach the rear crash beam

38. Attach the plastic inner arches

39. Attach the rear bumper

40. Stand back and take stock of what I have done (I've never even replaced a set of brake pads before)

41. Run engine and organise to have it checked over by trusted professionals and the alignment set up

42. Tax it and Drive it for the first time in over six months

43. Then try and forget about the fact it all has to be repeated at the front end (2018 onwards)




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Just when I thought there was nothing you hadn't left untouched [emoji1]



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You need a FULLONMINIS sticker on that cupboard door. Send me a PM with your address and I'll send you one [emoji1303]



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You were kind enough to provide a sticker *2 so I thought I should oblige.


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Thanks for the kind words and support during the past months, it's here to stay albeit it will be hidden behind the crash beam.


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Haha, thanks for put them up. I have some hidden away under my GP2 seat delete. In fact, I had forgotten until earlier when I was showing someone how the GP2 delete fitted [emoji23]



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The rebuild has begun


Fuel tank reattached with new foam blocks


Rear sub frame and anti roll bar

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Control arms with Powerflex bushes

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Next up New hand brake cables





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Hand brake cable installation starts

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Had a little set back, the donor trailing arms did not fit my brackets, had to get the original items shot blast, ground and painted, so lost about two weeks.

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Refurbished items will be sold on


Passenger side assembly nearly back together

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Started on the drivers side

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Also managed to purchase a pair of aero skirts, all fixings and fittings purchased, got on with sanding back, plastic primed and then high build primer, top coat on with first coat of laquer.

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All back together and back on it's wheels after 4 months on axle stands, it happened a number of weeks ago.


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So so nice!



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A pillars replaced with carbon hydro dripped items


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Top work. I like the A pillars [emoji1303] Replacing my lads pillars with black one's and will be retrimming headling black too. How much did the hydro dipping cost? My lad had been thinking of doing the same



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