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Kai2k

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Kai2k last won the day on January 24

Kai2k had the most liked content!

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Personal Information

  • Drives
    R56 Mini Cooper S

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  • LOCATION
    Newcastle upon Tyne
  • INTERESTS
    Travel, socialising, movies, health & fitness, cars, technology
  • OCCUPATION
    Software developer
  • FACEBOOK
    kai.armer
  • TWITTER
    Kai_2k
  • YOUTUBE
    KaiConfuzzled

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  1. Ps - you can replace the sensor without removing the calliper. Just a wheel off job. Maybe photograph the cable route before removal to aid refitting.
  2. Little update to this one. I’ve replaced the pad wear sensor today. It was the front one for me. The old one looked fine but the reset option was unavailable in the cars menu for the worn brake pads warning. Upon fitting the new sensor the reset option appeared and now I have no warning. Happy days. As for the brakes themselves it’s too early to say, given I have it booked in the garage this coming sat for bleeding of the ABS pump. Will post back with final verdict.
  3. Here are a couple of snaps for anyone wondering what LEDs look like in the MINI
  4. So. I finally got the bulbs in. Here is what I learnt: The bulbs you need are type T5 If the bulbs don't come on, try the bulb in the holder in the reverse, so 'upside down'. Many LED bulbs are 'sided' You don't need the holder. Pull the old ones out directly and push the new ones in. As with all bulbs, don't touch them with your bare hands. If you do, wipe them with alcohol before you fit them. When you refit the mirror assembly offer the TOP EDGE in first. There is a little actuating arm which activates a micro switch to switch off the lamps when you close the visor. This is easily damaged It's well worth the effort
  5. PS - I clambered under the car tonight at each corner, no sign of any leaks.
  6. So I spoke to my friendly independent today, whom I have used for years and trust. They said they've had spongy brake pedal issues with a few BMW cars and it's almost always the ABS pump that needs to be bled. Apparently they hook up a diagnostic machine to the car and put it in to bleed mode. It pulses the ABS pump and tells the mechanic which corner to unlock, at which time. It's booked in for a week Sat. While I'm on I'll give them 4 x new bleed nipples. Might as well! I'll post back the results. So far it's the cheapest thing to try.
  7. While I remember - this helped me with the main map lights in the roof console. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI_R56/101-INTERIOR-Roof_Switch_Replacement/101-INTERIOR-Roof_Switch_Replacement.htm I took the whole console off, but if you prepare in advance with bulb tweezers or a 9 mm vaccum or rubber hose you’ll not need to remove the console.
  8. Thanks @Kettlepot the pads are very similar to regular road ones. I’ve puzzled over the temperature, but there is no pattern to it, hot or cold it does it when it feels like it. It seems like holding the pedal for a few seconds triggers it. I guess that’s why the brakes feel a bit iffy as my force is slowly being lost by whatever causes the fault. Anyone reading this, next time in your car if you don’t mind, pump the pedal so it’s hard, fire up the engine and hold the pedal for like 10 - 15 seconds. I’d be interested to know if anyone else’s keeps going toward the floor, or stops.
  9. Ah thanks, that’s great - appreciate it
  10. Hi All, So I’ve never been impressed really with my brakes, but given the discs and pads were original I always told myself upon replacement it would be sorted. I used to notice sometimes long steady braking would kind of tail off, resulting in me needing to push the pedal harder toward the end of the stop. An example is a long slow on a motorway slip road - generally I brake early and steadily. I noticed from time to time my brake pedal felt hard and high but then would slowly drop if I kept my foot on. None of this ever felt dangerous and the car stops if you jump on them, but they never inspired confidence. Fast forward, now I have EBC grooved / dimpled discs, greenstuff pads and motul RBF 660 fluid. The brakes feel great sometimes, other times, not so much. I’ve done a little testing and here is what it’s like: Engine off - pump pedal, gets high and rock hard, no amount of pressing will budge it. Start engine - pedal softens a little, to be expected, as all of my previous cars have. BUT - keep pressure on, and it slowly keeps dropping until it reaches almost the floor. Take foot off, a pump or two, back to solid. Fluid is permanently at the max mark. As an extra tidbit, when the pedal is hard the handbrake is like, just about 3 clicks (third is quite stiff). When the pedal has dropped, the hand brake is more loose, having a good extra click. So, the puzzle. Has anyone else experienced this? Just starting to read about it, I suspect the brake booster. It’s almost as if a relief valve is opening after 5 seconds. I reckon an MOT tester could fail it. I don’t suspect the master cylinder given the fluid never drops. If anyone has any idea I’d be very grateful. Thanks, Kai.
  11. Ah, ok no worries. I am very interested however in the notion of turning off the bulb monitoring. If you can do this I’d certainly make it worth your while. To be honest the bulbs I originally had (Twenty branded ones from ABD) were classed as error free but obviously were not. No one seems to be able to identify a brand which truly works on MINIs. In addition however the ones I had were a terrible fit. When I removed them I almost dropped one inside the lamp. Anyway, I’ve got a couple of spares from my interior kit which look great and fit solid, but trip the alert. If you can help me turn that off I’d be well happy.
  12. Hi All, Hopefully this helps someone. So recently I did the full interior LED upgrade. I highly recommend this, it really makes the interior a much nicer place to be. It’s pretty simple - as always just take your time. Also, perhaps get a couple of spare fuses handy - I blew one (F 18 I think) just by pulling out the boot bulb. This took out a number of items including the air bags! Anyway, one area that puzzled me was the vanity bulbs. I believe most people attempt to remove the two clear / white plastic covers which sit over the bulbs. So this is possible, but risky if you are fussy like me and don’t want any marks on any trim. Once these are off, removal of the bulbs IS possible but it’s not easy due to restricted access. You need to be handy with tweezers, or bits of rubber tubing etc. Anyway, another option is to remove the entire mirror / flap assembly. This sounds harder but in fact it is really simple. See the pics below, they are held on by 4 clips. I gently slipped a credit card behind the top outer edge of the unit pushed down whilst gently pulling the unit forward. Once one clip releases you’re home and dry. Once the unit is off the bulbs are simple to replace. I’m not saying this is a better option that going in via the plastic covers but it’s an alternative. Big shout to @Mr Watton for his practical demo of this!
  13. Cracking run out today. Nice to see some new faces and people mooching around chatting to one another, even when strangers. I think that’s what sets the FOM scene apart from other car clubs.- the people. Thanks for making it an enjoyable day. MINI is clean and back in the garage sleeping ha ha
  14. @Kettlepot can you please double check the link you sent? It points to amber indicator lamps but I need side / parking lamp bulbs. When you were behind me yours looked good, not yellow at all. Thanks
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