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  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    A quick search on the Googles brought this up. I think it looks smart as Red with White ๐Ÿ˜ Oh am I? We'll have to see about that
  3. 3 points
    It would depend on what it would be used for. GP1 if it was locked away in the garage and forgotten about, ready to sell in 10 years time. GP2 for the odd weekend blast. Canโ€™t really comment on the GP3 as Iโ€™m yet to drive one (as is most people). Regardless of generation though, although theyโ€™re made to be drivers cars, Iโ€™d feel guilty about adding miles to it. Stick some decent coilovers on a R56 JCW and Iโ€™d imagine youโ€™re 80% there driveability wise.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    So ive spent HOURS on working to get this "DSC Coding Error" fixed....and ive done it ! Car now recognises the donor pump.....Woop Woop ! Ive re learnt the module using Winkfp, double checked the chassis number change, then used NCSExperts many stages of coding (theres about 7 stages) to get it to reset, each time switching the ignition off, key out, wait 15 seconds, then try the next stage....it was quite nerving ! With regards the difference in part numbers, i think this is just updated software stages, and the replacement was a slightly newer "Stage" even though the part number on the module was correct! Whats annoying is I dont actually have DSC, thats for MINIs 2010+, I have ACS+T, but the BMW coding still relates to DSC, confused, it bloody is confusing! lol (note the DSC comment in the screenshot attached!) Its too late now to be bleeding the brakes, so I will do that tomorrow night. Im so hyped that i might even sort out the short circuit fault for the number plate lights now, its only been like that since buying the car haha The true test will be the test drive to ensure the ABS and traction works ok, but im positive all will be ok. Oh, and ive ordered an ABS plug from a BMW M5 2007 edition, it just so happens they used the same plug so I will fish out the seal from that then add it to my plug
  6. 2 points
    When bad photos happen to good vehicles I dont know much about taking photos, but i always try my best with what ever equipment (or iphone) i have to hand. Heres a few things ive found off another site that you ll may found useful In no way am I a professional photographer so don't flood me with specific questions or bad photos. Lighting for detail The perfect time to shoot a vehicle to show off its interior and overall surface qualities is midday on a partly cloudy or slightly overcast or hazy day. This is when the sun is at its highest which logically means the light will have the best angle into the interior. It is also the best kind of light - indirect. Indirect light is diffused (meaning the rays are scattered rather than in a straight line). Diffused light bounces and evens out a subject... Direct bright sunlight is not good because its too bright and causes hard shadows. Most cameras (especially digital ones) dont handle those hard dark shadows really well. Shooting a vehicle in a shadow area (i.e. next to the house when the sun is on the other side) is also bad for obvious reasons. The shadow is dark!! The general rule in photography is more light the better. Just remember that the type of light (direct versus indirect) also makes a big difference. Showin` off the finish The old "photo at sunrise/sunset" shot of a new vehicle. Its the unwritten rule of automobile marketing. Well, who can argue? Even an '86 Escort looks great in it! (No offence to those Escort owners here). This is for good reason. The best time of day to show off the lines of the vehicle and that glass-like paint finish is the first or last 1-1.5 hours of direct sun daylight when the sun is low on the horizon...you get that warm yellowish light and long dark shadows which provide nice contrast for the reflections in the paint. Background Remember the vehicle's immediate environment will be reflected in the finish, so a busy, highly detailed environment (like trees, buildings, etc) will end up complicating the reflections. Try to find a background or area around the car in that is low in detail or visual clutter. The ideal place is of course a green field, like a park or something with lots of distance between you and the nearest tree, building etc. The lower objects are the horizon (meaning the farther away you are from things like buildings, trees, etc) the better. If you live in an area with lots of hills you can also achieve this by finding a higher elevation to shoot on. If you cant find someplace like this, find a plain, bright neutral coloured background like the wall of a brick building. Remember you want your sweet ride to stand out as the subject of the photo, so the simpler the background the better. For vehicles that are colourful keep the background as neutral (meaning not colourful) as possible...For those of you more with more neutral coloured vehicles (Cosmos, Arctic, Alpine) a solid coloured, more vivid hue like red, green, yellow etc will provide a nice contrast. Of course, you can experiment with this to see what you like the best. Just remember that your red car will look different when surrounded by a yellow or green background. Move it!!!! Don't just park the vehicle and snap photos as you walk around it. Unless it is a perfectly overcast day (which is not good either) one side of the vehicle will be in shadow! Not good. Find the background you like, pick the best vantage point to shoot from, shoot, re position the vehicle, shoot again...You get the idea.Think about what angles you want to shoot from too and if you are really anal about it, put a shot list together (front, rear, profiles, 3/4 fronts and rears, etc). I know, it takes a little extra effort, but once you see the results you'll be glad you put the extra effort in. Oh, and if you are shooting at sunset, remember to work quickly...the last hour of daylight goes REALLY fast and believe it or not 10 minutes can make a huge difference between a great shot and something that looks too dark. Avoid using the flash if possible. We've seen lots of pics on this forum shot with a flash and we all know its about the most unflattering way to show off your sweet ride Generally, most auto-exposure cameras meter the light of a subject in several areas, then average the light reading to decide if the light level is too low. If it is, the flash will kick in. Remember this, if the background of the picture is MUCH darker than the car than when the camera takes the average light level it will think its too dark and use the flash. This means dont shoot your vehicle against a dark background if you can help it. For those of you shooting black vehicles, well you are gonna have a hard time regardless. The only way to ensure the flash doesn't kick in is either: MAKE SURE THERE IS ENOUGH LIGHT! TURN IT OFF MANUALLY Spot metering, fill cards, tripods and other advanced Stuff For those of you who wanna experiment, most digital and SLR cameras have a little cross-hair in the middle of the viewfinder. While most cameras use average light metering, you may be able to set the camera to look at ONLY the brightness of what is in the centre of that little cross-hair. This is usually called SPOT metering. While pointing the spot at a darker or shadow area of the vehicle, pressing halfway down on the shutter button will perimeter the exposure. Without pressing all the way down or releasing the button, you then move the viewfinder to compose the shot accordingly, then PRESS ALL THE WAY DOWN. This way the camera will adjust the exposure to use that DARKER area as the average light, meaning it will expose longer to let in more light. Make sure you have disabled your flash with this approach. Confused yet? For close ups of areas that are hard to photograph because they are too dark, or interior areas, you can try using a fill card. A fill card is nothing more than a LARGE WHITE board. Most are made out of cardboard or foam core, a graphic mounting material. Anything reflective like tin foil works too. Position the card just out of the composition and angle it until you see the reflected light hit the subject area that's dark. You can hold it yourself, or bring an assistant to hold it who also loves your car And finally, if you really want to be able to play with exposure for light and depth of field, get a tripod. Sometimes, in order to have a long enough exposure to get the shadow areas in your photo, the camera will want to set the shutter speed to something slower than even the steadiest hand can hold without causing image blurring. A tripod lets you manually adjust the shutter speed and/or aperture (also called f stop which is the little iris like thingy inside the lens that lets light in). What is depth of field? Well, simply put its the distance interval the camera lens can see in focus. You can play with that if you want to blur the background out rather than have it be nice and sharp. Well that's it I guess. Hope this helps those who just want to get some good shots for the auto trader advert, and always take in landscape mode Have more tips you want to share with everyone...let us know...
  7. 2 points
    Ive run out of Ink, ill get me crayons out and get colouring in... hehe
  8. 2 points
    Right folks, last minute I know. Who fancies joining us for a run out on Sunday Morning ? We will meet at McDonalds Metro Centre and aim to leave there for 9:30 so probably meet for 9. from there we will follow a route of my choice (probably up into the Wear valley and probably into Northumberland for lunchtime/early afternoon (goodness knows just depends on the weather and general chat time). We will end up somewhere for Sunday Lunch. This is the latter part of Si's stag weekend so will depend on current health status following the previous days antics as to how far we go. Please edge on the side of caution and arrive with a full tank of fuel. Si Ben Lewis Thomas Steven Andy (probably) Ian
  9. 2 points
    Could always print them out for me ๐Ÿ˜‚
  10. 2 points
    CD rom or floppy disc are available too ๐Ÿ˜œ
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    That's old school ๐Ÿ˜‚
  13. 2 points
    Here we go, little late, im too busy playing with my own car of course..
  14. 2 points
    Great run out guys! Really enjoyed it. Ill get some pics up later today @Kettlepot @LewisE @j13_wtt @Kiddkaos
  15. 2 points
    Well all part of the fun ๐Ÿ˜‚ I did indeed, will check up on coolant level in the morning before work. Big thanks to FOMroadside assistance
  16. 2 points
    Awesome little day out!! Pleasure to meet you @Kettlepot @j13_wtt @LewisE
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    I donโ€™t miss out on donuts, and itโ€™s my week off soooo๐Ÿ˜
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    โ€œBestโ€ Christmas jumper ? youve only got one, havenโ€™t you ?
  23. 2 points
    @Mr Watton you could always be an Abarth fwend and use Donnas?
  24. 2 points
    Did someone say #WheelWednesday? I'm sure TWS will offer loads of different shades of white and different effects
  25. 2 points
    Is the โ€˜Stevenโ€™ on the list me? if not then Iโ€™m there with bells on...and in either an Audi or and Abarth!
  26. 2 points
    The Newcastle one (Westerhope). They're a sponsor of us and Johnny will look after you ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป I've used them a few times now and they always do a great job. I'm actually dropping some alloys off there today to have them refurbed
  27. 2 points
    Iโ€™d feel guilty even modifying one, as I have a habit of not leaving things alone. thanks @lewismason1310 for the comment ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป
  28. 1 point
    thatโ€™s like soooo bad! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚ nope, no fix yet. The nsr brake caliper decided it was way too attached to the bleed screw so to throw a tantrum it rounded it off. I managed to get it off after 8 hours so a new screw will be here today so as long as the ABS pump bleeds out all of its air then it should make an appearance tonight. If Iโ€™m not 100% happy with the brakes then Asbo will be making an appearance ๐Ÿ˜„
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Welcome @caine_r56 to FULL ON MINIs
  31. 1 point
    yeah deffo on the wax, especially in this weather! As for the blow torch, its come in handy many a time hehe
  32. 1 point
    Ay up Couple of questions regarding the Noise maker What's it purpose? Is it really worth removing it and putting a pretty red pipe on? Same with the resonator delete? I'm really drawn to the red silicone pipes ๐Ÿค“
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    I'll be there on this too ๐Ÿ˜
  35. 1 point
    Would only work until 4 anyway๐Ÿคท๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    I think your on about Mobility Scooters! Easy enough to add some MINI badges and viper strips....oh and under LED lighting kits hehe
  38. 1 point
    Considering itโ€™s Wednesday (#wheelwednesday)
  39. 1 point
    There are some lovely little accents that make this desirable but the price tag is just too much. I like the pattern on the dash and has me thinking of ideas for the my R56
  40. 1 point
    I take it you got sorted then?
  41. 1 point
    I take it you are talking about intake pipes and not exhaust ? Exhaust resonator delete makes a nice sound
  42. 1 point
    Welcome along ๐Ÿ‘
  43. 1 point
    Ill be there about 5pm too
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    I need to recreate this photo with mine ๐Ÿ˜Ž
  46. 1 point
    As we have discussed, you have more experience in the coding and OBD fault diagnosis but I'm intrigued why the CAS is showing a different mileage. I'd be inclined to reset both front speed sensors again to see if they both come back to "0"
  47. 1 point
    although I love the the R56 and the GP2 I'd have to vote to the GP1 as its more raw, more of a drivers car. With the above said, if I was spending my own money, I wouldn't buy a special addition unless I was keeping it standard.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Thanks pal much appreciated gonna go race mode lol
  50. 1 point
    The ET is the offset of the wheel. Its a bit complicated to work out. Essentially the higher the number the more it will tuck under your wheels. The distance is measured from the back of hub mounting surface to the centre of the wheel For example, Andy's wheels are ET20 iirc and poke out quite a bit because that offset gap is small so his hub plate is further towards the back of the rim. ET0 would have the mounting plate bang in the middle and with a minus number would be towards the front of the wheel. The standard MINI set up is ET42 to ET45, so the centre of the rim is 42 to 45mm further back then the centre.
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