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  1. Today
  2. that’s like soooo bad! πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ nope, no fix yet. The nsr brake caliper decided it was way too attached to the bleed screw so to throw a tantrum it rounded it off. I managed to get it off after 8 hours so a new screw will be here today so as long as the ABS pump bleeds out all of its air then it should make an appearance tonight. If I’m not 100% happy with the brakes then Asbo will be making an appearance πŸ˜„
  3. Yesterday
  4. And I thought my SD was bad!! 😯
  5. Wasnt to start with
  6. Clean ready for tomorrow
  7. Thanks pal much appreciated gonna go race mode lol
  8. Happy days so were all fixed now?
  9. Last week
  10. Hello, I'm pretty sure I saw your car at newcastle car show? Looks very nice!
  11. Hello @caine_r56 and welcome to FullOnMINIs πŸ‘πŸ»
  12. Welcome @caine_r56 to FULL ON MINIs
  13. So ive spent HOURS on working to get this "DSC Coding Error" fixed....and ive done it ! Car now recognises the donor pump.....Woop Woop ! Ive re learnt the module using Winkfp, double checked the chassis number change, then used NCSExperts many stages of coding (theres about 7 stages) to get it to reset, each time switching the ignition off, key out, wait 15 seconds, then try the next stage....it was quite nerving ! With regards the difference in part numbers, i think this is just updated software stages, and the replacement was a slightly newer "Stage" even though the part number on the module was correct! Whats annoying is I dont actually have DSC, thats for MINIs 2010+, I have ACS+T, but the BMW coding still relates to DSC, confused, it bloody is confusing! lol (note the DSC comment in the screenshot attached!) Its too late now to be bleeding the brakes, so I will do that tomorrow night. Im so hyped that i might even sort out the short circuit fault for the number plate lights now, its only been like that since buying the car haha The true test will be the test drive to ensure the ABS and traction works ok, but im positive all will be ok. Oh, and ive ordered an ABS plug from a BMW M5 2007 edition, it just so happens they used the same plug so I will fish out the seal from that then add it to my plug
  14. Hello @caine_r56, Welcome to FULL ON MINIs. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. Before moving on, dont forget to check your notification settings within your profile to make sure you get the most from the site. For example notifications from replies, new discussions, messages to your profile, and much much more. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. caine_r56 joined on the 10/12/19. View Member
  15. ALL of the build threads is the correct answer to that
  16. When bad photos happen to good vehicles I dont know much about taking photos, but i always try my best with what ever equipment (or iphone) i have to hand. Heres a few things ive found off another site that you ll may found useful In no way am I a professional photographer so don't flood me with specific questions or bad photos. Lighting for detail The perfect time to shoot a vehicle to show off its interior and overall surface qualities is midday on a partly cloudy or slightly overcast or hazy day. This is when the sun is at its highest which logically means the light will have the best angle into the interior. It is also the best kind of light - indirect. Indirect light is diffused (meaning the rays are scattered rather than in a straight line). Diffused light bounces and evens out a subject... Direct bright sunlight is not good because its too bright and causes hard shadows. Most cameras (especially digital ones) dont handle those hard dark shadows really well. Shooting a vehicle in a shadow area (i.e. next to the house when the sun is on the other side) is also bad for obvious reasons. The shadow is dark!! The general rule in photography is more light the better. Just remember that the type of light (direct versus indirect) also makes a big difference. Showin` off the finish The old "photo at sunrise/sunset" shot of a new vehicle. Its the unwritten rule of automobile marketing. Well, who can argue? Even an '86 Escort looks great in it! (No offence to those Escort owners here). This is for good reason. The best time of day to show off the lines of the vehicle and that glass-like paint finish is the first or last 1-1.5 hours of direct sun daylight when the sun is low on the horizon...you get that warm yellowish light and long dark shadows which provide nice contrast for the reflections in the paint. Background Remember the vehicle's immediate environment will be reflected in the finish, so a busy, highly detailed environment (like trees, buildings, etc) will end up complicating the reflections. Try to find a background or area around the car in that is low in detail or visual clutter. The ideal place is of course a green field, like a park or something with lots of distance between you and the nearest tree, building etc. The lower objects are the horizon (meaning the farther away you are from things like buildings, trees, etc) the better. If you live in an area with lots of hills you can also achieve this by finding a higher elevation to shoot on. If you cant find someplace like this, find a plain, bright neutral coloured background like the wall of a brick building. Remember you want your sweet ride to stand out as the subject of the photo, so the simpler the background the better. For vehicles that are colourful keep the background as neutral (meaning not colourful) as possible...For those of you more with more neutral coloured vehicles (Cosmos, Arctic, Alpine) a solid coloured, more vivid hue like red, green, yellow etc will provide a nice contrast. Of course, you can experiment with this to see what you like the best. Just remember that your red car will look different when surrounded by a yellow or green background. Move it!!!! Don't just park the vehicle and snap photos as you walk around it. Unless it is a perfectly overcast day (which is not good either) one side of the vehicle will be in shadow! Not good. Find the background you like, pick the best vantage point to shoot from, shoot, re position the vehicle, shoot again...You get the idea.Think about what angles you want to shoot from too and if you are really anal about it, put a shot list together (front, rear, profiles, 3/4 fronts and rears, etc). I know, it takes a little extra effort, but once you see the results you'll be glad you put the extra effort in. Oh, and if you are shooting at sunset, remember to work quickly...the last hour of daylight goes REALLY fast and believe it or not 10 minutes can make a huge difference between a great shot and something that looks too dark. Avoid using the flash if possible. We've seen lots of pics on this forum shot with a flash and we all know its about the most unflattering way to show off your sweet ride Generally, most auto-exposure cameras meter the light of a subject in several areas, then average the light reading to decide if the light level is too low. If it is, the flash will kick in. Remember this, if the background of the picture is MUCH darker than the car than when the camera takes the average light level it will think its too dark and use the flash. This means dont shoot your vehicle against a dark background if you can help it. For those of you shooting black vehicles, well you are gonna have a hard time regardless. The only way to ensure the flash doesn't kick in is either: MAKE SURE THERE IS ENOUGH LIGHT! TURN IT OFF MANUALLY Spot metering, fill cards, tripods and other advanced Stuff For those of you who wanna experiment, most digital and SLR cameras have a little cross-hair in the middle of the viewfinder. While most cameras use average light metering, you may be able to set the camera to look at ONLY the brightness of what is in the centre of that little cross-hair. This is usually called SPOT metering. While pointing the spot at a darker or shadow area of the vehicle, pressing halfway down on the shutter button will perimeter the exposure. Without pressing all the way down or releasing the button, you then move the viewfinder to compose the shot accordingly, then PRESS ALL THE WAY DOWN. This way the camera will adjust the exposure to use that DARKER area as the average light, meaning it will expose longer to let in more light. Make sure you have disabled your flash with this approach. Confused yet? For close ups of areas that are hard to photograph because they are too dark, or interior areas, you can try using a fill card. A fill card is nothing more than a LARGE WHITE board. Most are made out of cardboard or foam core, a graphic mounting material. Anything reflective like tin foil works too. Position the card just out of the composition and angle it until you see the reflected light hit the subject area that's dark. You can hold it yourself, or bring an assistant to hold it who also loves your car And finally, if you really want to be able to play with exposure for light and depth of field, get a tripod. Sometimes, in order to have a long enough exposure to get the shadow areas in your photo, the camera will want to set the shutter speed to something slower than even the steadiest hand can hold without causing image blurring. A tripod lets you manually adjust the shutter speed and/or aperture (also called f stop which is the little iris like thingy inside the lens that lets light in). What is depth of field? Well, simply put its the distance interval the camera lens can see in focus. You can play with that if you want to blur the background out rather than have it be nice and sharp. Well that's it I guess. Hope this helps those who just want to get some good shots for the auto trader advert, and always take in landscape mode Have more tips you want to share with everyone...let us know...
  17. Ive run out of Ink, ill get me crayons out and get colouring in... hehe
  18. Could always print them out for me πŸ˜‚
  19. CD rom or floppy disc are available too 😜
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